The smoke that thunders

Victoria Falls, Livingstone, Zambia

05:00 LT - When I woke up this morning I was extremely excited. This was our second day in Livingstone, and we had just made it to the hotel yesterday during the late afternoon.

All we could do was to rush to the site and see the famous Victoria Falls before the viewing area closed for the night. On the way there, a sign by the road read “Welcome to Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park” (The Smoke that Thunders).

Past the entry gates, a massive statue of the British explorer David Livingstone welcomed visitors into the Park. From there, we would have had to walk a fair length into the thicket to reach the observation deck. From afar, all you could hear was the increasing noise of the water. The walk felt endless. I was trying to be careful not to trip on the little branches stemming out of the bush, as I was impatiently picking up the pace.

Suddenly, the noise resounded powerfully like a rumble of thunder echoing through a gorge. Words cannot describe this humbling sight. A width of 2 kilometres, 1200 cubic metres per second of water, dropping from a height of 110 metres, making you feel so small in front of the power of nature. After I came back to my senses, a hectic back and forth on the wet wooden walkways situated parallel to the falls took place. The spray left us completely drenched. I could barely, if at all, pull out my camera from under my raincoat.

Although we loved the initial visit, we felt like we could not leave without maximising the view of such a once in a lifetime experience. So, we agreed to step it up. 

The departure from the pad is scheduled for today at around 07:00. The weather is a bit iffy but I am hopeful. Once there, after the safety briefing, we will head straight into the helicopter. The departure takes us north initially at around 500 feet along the bed of the Zambesi River, then a left turn heading south towards the falls, with the occasional layer of clouds that obscures the view. A last turn towards the East. We can’t see much yet until we finally break out of the clouds…

“The whole scene was extremely beautiful; the banks and islands dotted over the river adorned with sylvan vegetation of great colour and form…scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

 -Dr D. Livingstone 1855